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ETUTING NATIONAL PARK, Indonesia – Hoping to unravel
the mysteries of human origin, anthropologist Louis Leakey
sent three young women to Africa and Asia to study our
closest relatives: It was chimpanzees for Jane Goodall,
mountain gorillas for Dian Fossey and the elusive, solitary
orangutans for Birute Mary Galdikas.
Nearly four decades later, 62-year-old Galdikas, the least
famous of his "angels," is the only one still at it. And the
red apes she studies in Indonesia are on the verge of
extinction because forests are being clear-cut and burned to
make way for lucrative palm oil plantations.
Galdikas worries many questions may never be answered. How
long do orangutans live in the wild? How far do the males
roam? And how many mates do they have in their lifetime?
"I try not to get depressed, I try not to get burned out,"
says the Canadian scientist, pulling a wide-rimmed jungle
hat over her shoulder-length gray hair in Tanjung Puting
National Park. She gently leans over to pick up a tiny
orangutan, orphaned when his mother was caught raiding
crops.
"But when you get up in the air you start gasping in horror;
there's nothing but palm oil in an area that used to be
plush rain forest. Elsewhere, there's burned-out land, which
now extends even within the borders of the park."
The demand for palm oil is rising in the U.S. and Europe
because it is touted as a "clean" alternative to fuel.
Indonesia is the world's top producer of palm oil, and
prices have jumped by almost 70 percent in the last year.
But palm oil plantations devastate the forest and create a
monoculture on the land, in which orangutans cannot survive.
Over the years, Galdikas has fought off loggers, poachers
and miners, but nothing has posed as great a threat to her
"babies" as palm oil.
There are only an estimated 50,000 to 60,000 orangutans left
in the wild, 90 percent of them in Indonesia, said Serge
Wich, a scientist at the Great Ape Trust of Iowa. Most live
in small, scattered populations that cannot take the
onslaught on the forests much longer.
Trees are being cut at a rate of 300 football fields every
hour. And massive land-clearing fires have turned the
country into one of the top emitters of carbon.
Tanjung Puting, which has 1,600 square miles, clings
precariously to the southern tip of Borneo island. Its 6,000
orangutans — one of the two largest populations on the
planet, together with the nearby Sebangau National Park —
are less vulnerable to diseases and fires.
That has allowed them, to a degree, to live and evolve as
they have for millions of years.
"I am not an alarmist," says Galdikas, speaking calmly but
deliberately, her brow slightly furrowed. "But I would say,
if nothing is done, orangutan populations outside of
national parks have less than 10 years left."
Even Tanjung Puting is not safe, in part because of a border
dispute between the central government, which argues in
favor of a 1996 map, and provincial officials, who are
pushing for a much smaller 1977 map. If local officials win,
the park could be slashed by up to 25 percent.
Galdikas, of Lithuanian descent, was an anthropology student
at the University of California in Los Angeles when she
approached Leakey, a visiting lecturer, in 1969. She follows
on the heels of Goodall, who today devotes virtually all of
her time to advocacy for chimps, and Fossey, who was
brutally murdered in her Rwandan hut in 1985.
Two and a half years later, she and her then husband, Rod
Brindamour, arrived in Tanjung Puting and settled into a
primitive thatch hut in the heart of one of the most
biodiverse regions on the planet, with millions of plant and
animal species.
Twice featured on the cover of National Geographic Magazine,
she wrote an autobiography, "Reflections of Eden,"
describing how she fell in love with the sound of cicadas,
and marveled at the sudden shifts of light that in an
instant transformed drab greens and browns into translucent
shades of emerald.
Her first challenge was simply finding the well-camouflaged
orangutans in 100-foot-high trees. But eventually she was
able to track them, sometimes for several weeks at a time.
She discovered that female orangutans give birth when they
are around 15 and then only once every eight or nine years,
making them especially vulnerable to extinction. They also
have one of the most intense maternal-offspring
relationships of all mammals, remaining inseparable for the
first seven or eight years.
While orangutans are at first very gregarious, as adults
they live largely solitary lives, foraging for fruit or
sleeping. Orangutan" means "man of the forest."
One of her main projects today is her rehabilitation center
in a village outside Tanjung Puting, overflowing with more
than 300 animals orphaned when their mothers were killed by
palm oil plantation workers.
With forests disappearing, the red apes raid crops, grabbing
freshly planted shoots from the fields.
"Many come in very badly wounded, suffering from
malnutrition, psychological and emotional and even physical
trauma," says Galdikas, as she watches members of her staff
prepare six young orangutans for release one overcast
Saturday afternoon.
It is a three-hour journey along bumpy roads to the release
site. By the time they arrive, it is raining and the last
gray light is feebly pushing its way through the deep canopy
of trees.
After years of being cared for, fed and taught the ways of
the woods, the young orangutans scramble nimbly to the tops
of trees. Branches snap as they make their nests for the
night.
"It is getting harder and harder to find good, safe forest
in which to free them," says Galdikas, who today spends half
her time in Indonesia and most of the rest teaching at Simon
Fraser University in British Columbia.
Forestry Minister Malem Kaban says the government is
committed to protecting Indonesia's dense, primary forests
and that no permit should be granted within a half-mile of a
national park. Even so, one palm oil company has started
clearing trees within Tanjung Puting's northern perimeter,
leaving a wasteland of churned-up peat and charred trunks.
Four others are seeking concessions along its eastern edge.
Derom Bangun, executive chairman of the Indonesian Palm Oil
Association, says while his 300 members have vowed to stay
clear of national parks, others have been known to operate
within areas that should be off-limits. Sometimes it is not
their fault, he notes, pointing to the need for better
coordination between central and local government on border
issues.
Galdikas, a passionate field researcher, says one of her
great regrets is that she does not share Goodall's skills in
raising awareness and funds for the great apes. But she is
happy Tanjung Puting has over the years grown into a popular
tourist destination. She says there's no better
advertisement for conservation than being in a rain forest.
Some visitors are even lucky enough to come face to face
with an orangutan on a slippery jungle trail.
"As he passes you, you nod and he nods back to you and
continues on his way," she says, adding that looking in the
eyes of a great ape, it instantly becomes clear that there
is no separation between humans and nature.
"If they go extinct, we will have one less kin to call our
own in this world," says Galdikas, who is also president of
the Los Angeles-based Orangutan Foundation International.
"And do we really want to be alone on this planet?"
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